12 Blazer & Trouser Separates Combinations All Men Should Know

Drinks parties, dates, dinner and beyond. These are the awkward limbo events for which a full suit is little much, but smart casual could be seen as a cop-out. Thankfully, for the style-conscious man, there exists another option. Albeit one that tends to strike fear into the hearts of those who’ve never attempted it.

We’re talking, of course, about suit separates.

Most gentlemen tend to write separates off as some advanced-level style move reserved only for the street-style elite and Pitti peacocks. However, we’ll let you in on a secret: it’s not anywhere as hard as they’d lead you to believe. The trick lies in knowing when to wear them, which colours work well together… and which ones don’t. Once you’ve got that pinned down, your wardrobe options will increase dramatically. So allow us to fill you in on the fundamentals.

What Are Separates?

At their core, separates are any items of tailoring—i.e. blazers and trousers—that don’t come from the same suit. Mixing the colours up keeps things more laid-back than wearing a two-piece without straying into sports jacket and jeans territory.

It can be a little more complex than that, though. For example, the trousers don’t always have to be tailored. A pair of suit trousers could be swapped out for chinos in most cases and still be classed as separates. It’s all about how it looks as a whole, and pairing the correct colours is a big part of that.

When Should I Wear Separates?

Any time the dress code is a little bit fuzzy would be a good time to opt for separates. They’re always a great option for weddings, business casual offices and cocktail attire. As long as you don’t work in a corporate office, and the invite doesn’t state black tie, you can consider yourself good to go.

If in doubt, check with the host.

How To Pull Suit Separates Off

If done right, suit separates are the perfect vehicle for flexing your sartorial chops. If done wrong, you’ll look like you got dressed in the dark. To ensure you always get the most out of mix-and-match menswear, follow these guidelines.

Consider Texture

Obviously, colour is hugely important when it comes to separates. That’s why they call them separates, right? But there’s another dimension to consider if you want to take your casual tailoring game from good to godlike.

Texture is often overlooked but highly impactful when deployed with some thought. The key lies in selecting fabrics that work together, and the crucial thing to pay attention to here is seasonality.

Generally speaking, summer and winter fabrics don’t pair well, so pay attention to the temperature and mix your textures accordingly. That means a big no to voile cloth with moleskin and a big yes to corduroy with heavy cotton twill or pique cotton with linen.

Disregard Formality

When talking in terms of dress pants, blazers and Derbies, it’s easy to fall into the trap of thinking separates should be formal. This is far from the truth.

At their core, suit separates are casual. Smart? Sure. But would you wear them to the Buckingham Palace Garden Party? Probably not. For this reason, structured tailoring is best avoided in place of more relaxed pieces. Anything that is obviously part of a matching two or three-piece is a big no-no.

Instead, stick to more laid-back jackets with natural shoulders and think outside of the box in terms of materials. Also, remember to exercise your freedom in terms of footwear. You might be constrained to leather Oxfords or Derbies with a formal suit but there’s much more room for manoeuvre where separates are concerned.

Create Contrast

It’s worth repeating: nailing the perfect blazer and trouser combinations is all about creating contrast. Colours should look good together but shouldn’t be too similar in tone. Get this wrong and you risk looking like you were trying to match and failed.

Of course, tonal separates can work, but it’s important to make the colours of the top and bottom different enough from each other to retain some semblance of contrast.

It’s also a good idea to use a unifying colour theme to bring your outfit together as a whole. This can be achieved through accessories or patterns. For example, olive pants could be worn with a patterned blazer featuring olive as a base colour. It’s a subtle yet effective way of creating visual cohesion.

Prioritise Fit

This really is menswear 101, but it’s relevant here too. Fit is the most important part of any outfit. It doesn’t matter what you paid or whose name is stitched into the label. If the garment doesn’t fit, it’s meaningless.

However, when it comes to wearing separates, it’s not just a good fit that’s important; it’s that the garments are uniform in the way they hang on your body.

For example, wearing an oversized blazer with slim-fit jeans would be a mistake. Instead, pay just as much attention to matching your fits as you would to colour and textures. It’s just as important, if not more so.

Blazer & Trouser Colour Combinations

Some colours work beautifully with one another. Others, not so much. Here, we look at the failsafe options you can refer to repeatedly to ensure your separates are perfectly matched.

Navy Blazer With Khaki Trousers

There are very few colours navy doesn’t work with, but there are a select few that it complements so wonderfully that it is almost as though they were designed to sit next to each other. One such hue is khaki. The beauty of this combination is that it works both ways round (top or bottom), but we will focus on a navy blazer with khaki trousers.

First, use a base layer to anchor the outfit. A white shirt, earthy roll neck or dark T-shirt would work nicely. If the occasion calls for it, you could even add a waistcoat – something autumnal like a brown or beige textured wool would work well.

Then it’s just a case of matching the suit trousers to your shoes. Try going for Oxfords or loafers in either a deep brown or black.

Blue Blazer With White Trousers

White trousers and tailoring are bold style moves, but one that can really pay off. So don’t let the Italian menswear mavens have all the fun—grab yourself a slice of the high-contrast action, too—just watch where you’re sitting when you’re out and about.

This one is best pulled off with a hearty dose of sprezzatura. Jacket-wise, why not go double-breasted? If it’s colder weather, you could even introduce a tonal waistcoat to give this combo an extra dimension. Other touches like a Panama hat, a scarf and/or a vibrant pocket square will help you achieve that sense of effortless nonchalance without coming across as try-hard (it’s a fine balance).

In terms of shoes, your options are numbered but black, dark brown or oxblood will always look great with this tried-and-tested pairing.

Green Blazer With White Trousers

For spring and summer occasions, there are few blazer and trouser combinations better suited than green and white. Shade-wise, the jacket should be somewhere between olive and forest green, but equally important as colour is texture.

Thick, tactile fabrics like heavy cotton twill or tweed work very nicely when paired with a light-coloured pair of pants. If pure white feels too showy, opt for cream instead and go for something with a high waist and pleats for bonus style points.

In terms of footwear, leather and suede will both work nicely, anywhere between beige and chestnut brown. If in doubt, a pair of brown suede loafers is a foolproof option.

Tonal Blue Blazer & Trousers

Suit separates don’t have to be at opposite ends of the colour spectrum. In fact, both the jacket and pants can be the same colour, provided the shades are different enough to create some contrast.

This is what’s known as tonal dressing, and it’s a good option for events and occasions that are dressier. Think cocktail parties and evening dos as opposed to summer weddings and outdoor daytime affairs. A light blue jacket and navy pants are a good place to start. If you want to add another element, a waistcoat can work either in navy to match the pants, grey, or a different shade of blue altogether.

Brown is best for footwear and stick to something classic like leather Derbies, loafers or Oxfords to keep it smart.

Tonal Grey Blazer & Trousers

Perhaps the best option (and the smartest) when going tonal with your separates is to work with neutrals. And grey is king when it comes to those. Piecing together an entire look around a grey colour palette may sound sinfully boring, but it can be surprisingly eye-catching when executed well.

Dark upstairs and light downstairs is the best approach here. For maximum contrast, go for a dark jacket and light grey pants. Again, the addition of a waistcoat can work well to bring things together, particularly when chosen in a shade that sits between that of the jacket and the pants.

Black leather is the obvious choice where footwear is concerned. However, that’s not to say a brown shoe can’t be worn, provided the shade complements the pants.

Beige Blazer With White Trousers

As previously mentioned, a summer wedding is the perfect occasion to wear your separates. But unless you want to be on the verge of passing out from heat exhaustion by the time the speeches start, you should avoid dark colours and heavier materials.

A linen beige jacket layered over a blue chambray shirt is a good place to start. It’s smart yet summery and will keep you cool. Pair this with crisp white tailored trousers or chinos.

Then, it’s just a case of nailing the footwear; black, dark brown or oxblood loafers are solid options here.

Black Blazer With Grey Trousers

From a summer favourite to a winter one. Mixing black and grey may not sound like the most festive combination around but keeping your jacket and trousers low-key and muted gives you some leeway to create a focal point elsewhere within your ensemble.

A good place to start is with your base layer – i.e. whatever you’ve elected to wear beneath the jacket. A roll neck is a sophisticated choice, and as the rest of your clothes aren’t screaming for attention, you can opt for a bold colour or even a pattern – a seasonal Fair Isle, perhaps?

As for your shoes, keep things nice and simple with black Derbies, brogues or monk straps.

Burgundy Blazer With Grey Trousers

When dressing for impact, a statement jacket is your best friend. A colourful top layer is a foolproof way to bring an outfit to life, making it ideal for parties and functions that allow you a little room for manoeuvre in the dress code department.

We’ve said it before many a time, but it’s worth repeating: if you’re going to wear a statement item – be it a jacket and shirt and tie or whatever else – you need to ensure the rest of your getup is pared-back. Nothing should be fighting for attention. That’s why a pair of grey trousers is such a good accompaniment in this instance. Grey is classic and understated and will complement a statement burgundy jacket without stealing any of the limelight.

On your feet, you’ll need to ensure that the colour of your shoes matches grey. To get this right, always opt for either black or dark brown.

Brown Jacket With Cream Trousers

Black and white is not an easy look to pull off when wearing separates. Unless you’re in very specific, very formal settings (see below), the contrast is just too sharp. Swap it out for brown and cream instead. The colours work together harmoniously, creating a palette that feels rich and natural and also looks good on pretty much every skin tone.

It can work either way around, but the important thing to remember is that you need a little contrast. If these two meet in the middle—a lighter brown with a darker cream—you’ll just get shades of beige that don’t quite fit together. Try a richer, chocolatey brown with a lighter cream.

Since both colours pick out texture well, try linen or wool.

Green Jacket with Black Trousers

Black tie doesn’t necessarily mean black jacket. At festive parties and other formal events, you can always ditch the penguin suit for something less expected. A green velvet or jacquard dinner jacket is always a handsome switch. You only dial the formality down a little, but you’re guaranteed to stand out.

The green should be dark, the fabric textured and the jacket itself should be a tuxedo with a shawl or at least a satin collar. It won’t work mixing a green suit jacket with black pants.

Ivory Jacket with Black Trousers

Bond did it. So did Bogart. An ivory dinner jacket with black trousers is straight out of the formalwear hall of fame, a look that oozes old-school glamour. And that means unless you’re running an upmarket joint in Casablanca, you only wear it on very special occasions.

You’re unlikely to find a jacket in bright white, but keep walking if you do. You’re looking for an off-white or ivory to make this work so that the contrast with the black is soft and luxurious. Go formal with your accessories, too: a bow tie and some patent Oxfords. The red carnation on the lapel is a strictly personal choice…

Grey Blazer with White Trousers

Here’s a separates combo that we don’t see as often as we’d like to. White (or off-white) trousers paired with a grey blazer is a cool summer option, casual but not unsophisticated. The trick to making it work is picking out the right shades. Charcoal will be too heavy, but you can’t go too light either because there needs to be some contrast with the trousers, too. A mid-tone is the Goldilocks grey.

Try the look with a linen shirt or knitted polo and a pair of loafers or deck shoes to hit that smart summer vibe. But note that, even in the sun, this is a difficult palette if your skin is very light.