Clothing Commandments: The Style Rules You Should Never Break

Image Credit: Brunello Cucinelli

Looking for a definitive list of the rules to tell you exactly how to dress? Bad news. There is no such thing. Style is subjective, and while there are certain things that tend to look good across the board, part of the fun is in figuring out what works for you personally. That said, there are certain guidelines you should always stick to if you want to be well-turned out.

Black-and-white rules about not mixing certain colours or what type of fabric a particular style of tailored jacket must be made from feel antiquated at best. But that’s not to say there aren’t certain guidelines that might help you dress better.

Below is a list of contemporary style rules you’d be wise to stick to. Veer away from them if you choose, but if you’re feeling lost and in need of a little sartorial guidance, use them as a point of reference to keep you on the straight and narrow.

Take Style Rules With a Pinch Of Salt

Let us preface this entire thing by addressing the fact that there aren’t any hard-and-fast rules in style. Not really. Some of the most stylish men we can think of routinely break the so-called rules, and it doesn’t do them any harm.

So, if you like something and it makes you feel good, wear it—even if we or anyone else in the world of menswear advises against it.

Black Tie Means Black Tie

As far as menswear rules go, this is about as close as it gets to ironclad. Sure, you can venture off-piste at a black-tie event, but you will raise eyebrows and potentially annoy the hosts.

There aren’t any grey areas with this particular dress code (the clue is in the name). So, if you spot it on an invitation, make sure to follow it.

Overdressed > Underdressed

Brioni

If you’re unsure of the appropriate level of formality for a particular occasion, always err on the side of overdressed.

Being the only guy in a tailored jacket is always preferable to being the only guy in jeans. Sharp trumps sloppy every single time, so if in doubt, dress to impress.

Keep Logos To A Minimum

Buck Mason

 

Contrary to what many guys believe, oversized designer logos do not scream, ‘I’m rich and have incredible taste.’ Quite the opposite. Obnoxious branding steals focus from the rest of your outfit, and it looks especially tacky when there are multiple logos battling it out for attention.

Instead, pick subtle, unbranded pieces to keep things tasteful. If you must use logos, keep them small and understated. Remember, the pieces themselves should do the talking, not the branding.

Steer Clear Of Skinny Fits

Again, if you really love skinny jeans and muscle-fit tees, more power to you – you do you. However, for the vast majority of men, it’s not a flattering look, which, coupled with the fact that anything remotely skinny is well and truly out of fashion now, makes it something well worth avoiding.

If you’re unsure what the best fit is, we’d advise keeping it classic and sticking to the middle of the road. Straight-leg jeans and classic-cut T-shirts are about as futureproof as it gets, so fill your wardrobe with those rather than drainpipes and clingy tops.

If you’re struggling to peel yourself out of your skinnies, a nice slim fit is a good compromise to get you moving in the right direction.

Stop Matching Everything

Thom Sweeney

So you heard about coordination and ran with it, but allow us to let you in on a little secret. Coordination doesn’t necessarily mean using the Pantone chart to match your sweater to your socks right down to the exact shade.

Colour-matching pieces like this looks contrived and awkward, so instead of focusing on coordinating colours, think about picking shades that complement each other.

Ignore The Algorithm

Instagram

Historically, social media has been a highly useful tool for style inspiration. However, as the algorithm becomes increasingly advanced, we unwittingly live in our own digital echo chambers, which can quickly lead to a boring, samey wardrobe.

Our advice? Look away from your phone for style inspiration from time to time. Read books on menswear, look around at what people are wearing in your local towns and cities, and check out some street-style photos from fashion weeks worldwide.

There are countless ways to pick up new ideas, and they don’t all have to be dictated by the algorithm.

Remove An Accessory Or Two

Corneliani

 

Sorry to say it, but you might be overdoing it on the accessories.

Yeah, adding a little flair to your outfit is great and accessories and a quick, easy way to do so, but if you’re clinging and clanging like a jar of coins with every step, it might be time to remove a piece of jewellery or two.

Wear What Makes You Comfortable

Buck Mason

Guidelines are all well and good, but the best thing anyone can wear is confidence. And the best way to get that is to wear what makes you feel comfortable.

If you think you look good, you will look good. So don’t get overly hung up on arbitrary rules, and instead wear the things that make you feel like you.

Todd Snyder

Fashion trends serve an important function in the fashion ecosystem. They keep things moving forward, and nothing would ever change without them. Still, they should be handled with care, because blindly decorating yourself in anything that’s peaking in popularity.

The best way to approach trends is to cherry-pick them. Choose the ones that speak to you – the ones that gel with your personal style. Incorporate elements from them rather than dressing head to toe in a certain way.

That way you can keep your style current without looking like a fashion victim.

Paddy Maddison

Paddy Maddison is Ape's Style Editor. His work has been published in Esquire, Men’s Health, ShortList, The Independent and more. An outerwear and sneaker fanatic, his finger is firmly on the pulse for the latest trends, while always maintaining an interest in classic style.